When I am in one of my favorite cities in the world: Seoul, South Korea, one of my first stops has to be its largest historic palace: Gyeongbokgung. This architectural marvel is central to Korea’s rich and resilient history.
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Gyeongbokgung ( 경복궁) can be reached via Gyeonbokgung station on the Number 3 subway line. It’s central location north of the Han River is walking distance from many other great sites in Seoul such as Bukchon Hanok Village, Jogyesa Temple, and Cheonggyecheon Stream.
Before reaching the actual palace complex, you will pass through the imposing Gwanghwamun (광화문). This huge gate and wall stretches like a long stone shield around Gyeongbokgung and accentuates the Palace’s importance.
Visitor Information
Admission into Gyeongbokgung is 3,000 Korean Won (at the time, just under $3USD) and is closed on Tuesdays. On the last Wednesday of every month, known as Culture Day, admission is free. The large courtyard right when you pass through Gwanghwamun is actually free year-round. Here you can see the fantastic changing of the guard ceremony. This is one of so many great free things to do in Seoul. Veering off from this courtyard is the National Palace Museum which is also free year-round.
You can access Gyeongbokgung and the rest of Seoul’s royal palaces for free if you are wearing a hanbok: traditional Korean dress. The other royal palaces of Seoul are Changdeokgung, Changgyeonggung, Gyeonghuigung, and Deoksugung. You are bound to see many tourists throughout Seoul dawning these colorful, bell-shaped gowns. There are many shops in the area to rent a hanbok for the day.
The palace complex is a series of numerous buildings, courtyards and corridors of various sizes, from massive thrones to smaller living quarters. I love the open air nature of traditional Korean palaces and temples because, even though this is obviously a very popular tourist destination, the spread out design prevents the experience from feeling too crowded.
The History of Gyeongbokgung
Gyeongbokgung was originally built in 1395 under King Taejo, the first king of the Joseon Dynasty. It was later the home of King Sejong, known as Sejong the Great. Along with helping to advance the arts and sciences, he is perhaps best known for inventing the Korean alphabet, called Hangul (한글 <- and there’s the word “Hangul” … in Hangul!)
Over the centuries, the palace has had a turbulent history to say the least. Korea’s history has been marked by numerous invasions and brutal colonial rule by the Japanese. Gyeongbokgung was first burned down during the early Japanese invasions of the late 16th century. Although it was rebuilt in the 19th century, the palace was mostly destroyed again during the later Japanese invasion of the 20th century and suffered more damage during the Korean War.
In 1989, the government began to reconstruct Gyeongbokgung to its rightful glory. Even though reconstruction is still technically in progress as of this writing, I have never found it obtrusive during my many visits.
There are some notable structures in Gyeongbokgung dating back to the 19th century that survived Japanese rule and the Korean War. One is the spectacular King’s throne called Geunjeongjeon (근정전). This is one of the most popular buildings of the palace, usually surrounded by visitors not only admiring it’s grand exterior but eagerly peering inside at the bold, colorfully intricate interior of the throne.
Another structure to survive from this period is beautiful Gyeonghoeru ( 경회루 ). This large pavilion at the center of a lake was used as a banquet hall where the royals were entertained with various performances.
Exploring Gyeongbokgung is particularly magical given its view of the surrounding mountains. Around the perimeter of the complex, you can get views of the modern commercial buildings of downtown Seoul: a wonderful juxtaposition of the old and the new.
By contrast, when you delve into the central depths of the palace and the maze-like alleys, with nothing but the bold colored walls, beautiful curving roofs and tranquil landscaping, it is easy to feel as though you have stepped back in time. One of my favorite aspects of traditional Korean architecture is dancheong: the colorful floral and swirling patterns adorning the roofs and walls.
On the Northeast edge of the complex is the Folk Museum. At no extra cost, you can view some examples of old textiles, tools, and furniture to learn a bit about daily Korean life in the past.
The normal opening hours of Gyeongbokgung typically end around sunset but during select days roughly from the Spring season through the Fall, the palace holds nighttime viewing hours. For this, unlike regular admission, tickets must be reserved in advance online and are subject to availability. It is a treat to see this place lit up and glowing at night.
Korea loves to show off its foliage both during cherry blossom season in spring and its gorgeous golden leaves in Autumn. I have had the joy of visiting during both colorful seasons. While the scattered pink blossoms of spring are lovely, I must say, the brilliant Autumn colors are a favorite for me!
A Symbol of Korean Resilience
As mentioned before, Gyeongbokgung has been destroyed and reconstructed multiple times. So indeed, most of the halls, pillars, and stone you see today are not as ancient as some other historical monuments around the world. But one really shouldn’t lament that “Oh, so the buildings I’m actually looking at aren’t that old…”. Gyeongbokgung represents something really special about South Korea as a whole: It is a nation that through hardship and violence has time and time again pulled itself out of the ashes and rebuilt its beautiful heritage. Gyeongbokgung is an example of extraordinary beauty that was meticulously pieced back together no matter how many tried to scrub it away. A trip to Seoul is truly incomplete without a visit to this stunning and unique monument of the strength of Korean history.
If you a fortunate enough to plan a trip to this exciting country, I hope you’ll check out my Seoul Packing List for all your travel needs.
