South Korea had one of the most efficient and effective responses to the COVID-19 pandemic. The country was able to keep their cases and mortalities very low without going into lock down with the help of contact tracing, widely available testing and swift isolation and quarantine of infected individuals. The Korean government was also extremely careful not to let in infection from abroad with the requirement of multiple negative COVID tests along ones journey and a two week long quarantine at the traveler’s expense. I was among those travelers who were more than willing to undertake this journey to stay safe in the Land of Morning Calm. So, in a sort of celebration of the fact that traveling to Korea is now way easier: here’s my story of the absolute strangest way I’ve ever entered a country.

Disclaimer: This story is for curiosity and entertainment purposes. It is not an instruction toward any action of the reader. The details in this post are based on my memories and best recollection. While details are true to the best of my knowledge, I claim no responsibility for them being 100% accurate.

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Requirements for Entering Korea during the Pandemic

I should probably state that when I traveled to South Korea during the pandemic, it was sort of towards the end when cases had steadily been declining and vaccines were widely available. So, in combination with Korea’s strict entry requirements, I was certainly not posing any danger to others or myself. It took me quite some time to research all the necessary materials and requirements. The first necessity was to fill out a K-ETA: an online visa form for certain countries including US citizens like myself. This online form included basic personal information as well as the address I’d be residing in within Korea.

I then needed to schedule my PCR test (the most thorough and expensive of the COVID tests) which had to be within a rather tight time window close to my flight departure. Though I could have gotten a cheaper test at a local drug store, I was paranoid about not receiving my results in time for my flight. So, I slightly begrudgingly paid $250 for a PCR test right at the airport. After an anxious wait for the results, I proudly took my negative COVID test with me to the check-in counter.

My protective face mask was of course firmly in place for the entire lengthy journey to Korea (including a grueling 15+ hour layover in Canada…). I had to be extremely careful to keep myself illness-free as I still had to test negative for COVID again when I arrived in Korea.

After the long flight, I finally landed in Incheon Airport where I completed a series of immigration forms which contained a lot of the same information I’d filled out in the online K-ETA form. I followed a dizzying number of signs pointing me to various lines to stand in as I juggled my forms, passport, and negative PCR test (which needed to be presented in hard copy).

A notable requirement for entering Korea during the pandemic was a Korean contact number. I was later told that this could have been my own phone number if I had a SIM card but in any case, it needed to be a callable number in order to facilitate contact tracing while moving around the country (more on that later). I was lucky that my generous Airbnb host let me use his phone number.

After what was probably 40+ hours in airports (I get queasy just remembering it…) I was finally taken to the loading area for a charter bus that would transport me and a few dozen other travelers to the location of our two week quarantine.

Quarantine in Korea

Korea had designated a few hotels to be solely used for the quarantine period of incoming travelers. The cost was, understandably, the responsibility of the traveler but it was a tad stressful not knowing what type of hotel I might be placed in (we were not given a choice). I had to be prepared to pay as much as $2000 (the most expensive possible location) but luckily, the quarantine hotel I was assigned cost $1500. Considering this price included the meals I’d be given for two weeks, I thought this was very reasonable. I had to download a special app on my phone just for monitoring my general health while in quarantine. With the help of a thermometer I was provided, I’d be required to report my temperature daily.

Entering the lobby of my designated quarantine hotel was like something out of a dystopian film: huge plastic sheets covered the walls and staff were protected by full white body coverings as they instructed us to fill out some more forms. I then lined up to enter a small room where my second PCR test was given. After my rigorous nasal probing, I was given a plastic bag with my dinner and directed to my room. I remember as the door closed behind me, it sunk in: I was not allowed to leave this room for 15 days and 14 nights.

The room was rather comfortable and clean with a large window providing a rather gorgeous view of the surrounding area. Each day at specific times, breakfast, lunch, and dinner were left in a plastic bag outside of my door for me to collect. There was also a bag for trash that I had to leave outside the door for collection at the end of each day.

Despite not having high expectations, I actually really liked the food! I was even given little snacks along with my main meals that I could save for later, so I was never hungry. If something wasn’t served quite warm enough, I had a handy electric hot plate I always bring to cook while traveling. The only thing a little lacking, at least for me, was the amount of water we were given. Luckily, I could always call down to the front desk to request a few extra bottles.

For my slightly minimal wardrobe, 2 weeks was long enough that I’d have to do some hand washing during my stay. While I always bring some travel packs of dissolving detergent, I was provided a solid laundry detergent bar to lather my clothes with (it was my first time seeing such a method of cleaning clothes).

I was honestly not too bored during my quarantine. My days were spent journaling, reading, watching plenty of Netflix, gazing at the amazing view from my window and enjoying the eclectic local TV shows. Watching Korean TV was both a fun look at local culture and humor as well as some extra language practice! As I was confined to four walls for such a long period of time, it was important for me to get some exercise even if it was just dancing to music around my room.

With occasional calls to family and friends, I wasn’t lonely either. From listening to other travelers’ quarantine stories, the isolation from others for two weeks was the most challenging aspect for many. As a frequent solo traveler, being alone for long periods of time is simply not uncomfortable for me. I wonder if more people could see the difference between being alone and being lonely. Periods of solo time can be very beneficial toward getting in touch with ourselves. I believe even the most extroverted person could benefit from some periods of mindful solitude.

My time in quarantine was also punctuated by a third PCR test (Korea was really not playing around with preventing foreigners from bringing in COVID…). In the middle of my isolation period, I was greeted by a knock on the door and a hazmat suited fellow who treated me to yet another deep nasal swabbing. Happily, I tested negative for all of my PCR tests and, after 2 weeks confined to a hotel room, I was finally allowed to leave. I was provided a free ride on a bus to a nearby subway station from where I proceeded onward to my Airbnb. To feel the fresh air out on the streets of Korea was such a relief.

What Was Korea Like During the Pandemic?

While I still made it a habit to avoid large crowds during my stay, it was a joy to see families playing in parks, laughing friends at restaurants and people generally relaxed as the worst of the pandemic seemed to be coming to an end. It certainly felt as though this relaxed feeling was possible through a kind of cooperation of the entire nation toward keeping everyone safe. Through consistent mask wearing, socially distancing when possible, and utilizing the plentiful testing sites to identify infection quickly, Korea was able to avoid completely halting the movement of its citizens.

One of the ways Korea was able to keep COVID cases low was through contact tracing: When entering almost any business, be it a museum, restaurant, or shopping mall: a guest would first have to sign in with their contact information. Most Koreans did this simply with a QR code easily scanned from their smart phones. For travelers like me without a SIM card (and thus no means of being called directly), I would sign in manually, usually on a simple note pad, with the contact info of my accommodation. This allowed anyone who had been at the same location as an infected person to be contacted and advised to get tested themselves. Subsequently, any person testing positive for COVID was required to isolate until they recovered.

South Korea also had a leg up on preventing the spread of disease due to face masks already being common. Long before the pandemic, face masks were already widely available due to the region’s occasional bad air quality (and also, wearing face masks to prevent spreading illness was not unusual to begin with in many Asian countries). There was also hand sanitizer everywhere : from subway stations to the entrance of most businesses and even parks. To further detect any potentially sick individuals: contactless thermometers could be found at the entrance of many businesses so you could easily see if you had a high temperature. While it may seem that Korea was gripped by strict regulations, it was honestly still very relaxing moving about and enjoying the country.

My journey to Korea during the pandemic is one of the most unique travel experiences of my life. Thankfully(at least as of writing this) the entry process to South Korea is now much simpler, but looking back…three COVID tests and two weeks of isolation was more than worth it to see one of my favorite places in the world.