Busan is a lively city on the southern coast of South Korea. Being on the coast, people of course enjoy it’s lovely beaches and seafood. One of it’s most popular tourist destinations decorates the hills near one of its ports. The colorful neighborhood has come to be called: Gamcheon Culture Village (감천문화마을). Its appearance as this slightly rugged collection of tightly packed buildings on the side of a hill has given it a quasi-nickname of the “Santorini of Korea”. I wonder if we’d benefit from resisting the urge to “sum up” a place by comparing it to something closer to our memory. To think understanding something is to say “Oh! So it’s kinda like __”. Well I say, never mind what it’s “Kinda like”! Dive in and see for yourself!

A good starting point for navigating to Gamcheon Culture Village is its small museum at 191, Gamnae 2-ro, Saha-gu. You can take the subway line 1 from Busan Station to Toseong Station. From there, it’s about a 20 minute hike through the hills to Gamcheon. During my visit to Busan, I happened to be staying in the neighborhood “Ami-dong” which was conveniently just a 10ish minute walk away.

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The History of Gamcheon Culture Village

Many decades ago in the 1920’s, the village was built as a small working class neighborhood. The residents were largely the workforce for the nearby port. As the population grew, the village grew. More and more makeshift homes popped up to accommodate the incoming and growing families. This lends to the clustered nature of the village which has survived today.

In 2009, Busan’s Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism began the project to renovate the buildings and paint them with bright colors. Over the years it became a main tourist destination of Busan and indeed South Korea as a whole.

Exploring the Heart of Gamcheon

This fascinating kaleidoscope of brightly hued homes and shops is connected with a few larger main streets that allow the larger throngs of visitors. There you’ll find numerous cafes, restaurants, and souvenir shops. However, some of the real magic is in getting lost in it’s veins of tiny crooked alleyways and precarious stone staircases.

And I do mean “getting lost”. There are areas of Gamcheon Culture Village where the homes are so close together and the alleys so winding, there is scarcely a point of reference to tell how to get back to the main streets.

As I made my way through these fun paths, I was charmed by plentiful murals and sculptures. Some of these colorful old homes have been converted into galleries where you can see various art projects.

Indeed, the homes themselves: with their jumble of multicolored roofs and walls and uneven painted steps, made for just as much of an artistic sight!

An unexpected treat frames the perimeter of Gamcheon Culture Village. In the forested area surrounding the neighborhood, there are beautiful tree covered trails. I had the fortune of being here during Cherry Blossom season. No photos quite captured how beautiful it was with the cherry blossom petals raining down. I imagine this trail is also gorgeous during the autumn season.

For a bite to eat, I really loved Café 우인 (Pronounced “Oo Een”) 172, Gamnae 2-ro, Saha-gu. The staff were so friendly (and even complimented my very limited Korean skills). It had such a warm, homey atmosphere. The unpretentious menu and reasonable prices also drew me in. Café culture is fun in Korea but I find some which focus on the aesthetic surroundings to be quite expensive.

Café 우인 boasts an amazing view over the colorful village and the sea in the distance. Just up the stairs is the rooftop patio to enjoy a snack surrounded by the layers of history and unique character of this wonderful place. Gamcheon Culture Village is not Korea’s only example of an old neighborhood revamped with bright colors and art to attract visitors and stimulate the economy. While it’s a delight to the eyes and surely a creative way to honor the older neighborhoods, sometimes the locals are… ambivalent (to put it lightly) about the huge influx of tourists in these otherwise peaceful, small streets.

Traveling Mindfully

I believe that an opportunity to experience these types of spaces is also an opportunity to practice being a considerate traveler. Understandably, everyone doesn’t have the flexibility to travel during an off season. However, you can always save the loud talking for a restaurant, refrain from littering, and try not getting overzealous with the picture taking. (Do you really need to take a dozen selfies right in front of someone’s house?) I think these simple mindful acts can really make a difference for the people who call this place home.

Thank you so much for reading! If you’re planning a trip to South Korea, check out my packing list for all your travel essentials!