Incheon, South Korea is a large city neighboring Seoul. Most may only know Incheon for its world-renowned airport, being many a tourist and resident’s first point of entry into the country. When I lived in Incheon for some time, I delighted in discovering that it is so much more than an airport hub. Getting spontaneous and seeking out fun experiences in Incheon was half of the fun as there was inevitably less “tourism guidance” compared to Seoul. Taking out my smart phone map, I looked to see if there were any interesting temples in my area. Korea has such a wealth of beautiful Buddhist temples. That is how I came to know Heungryunsa, the beautiful golden laden temple on the side of Cheongnyangsan (or Cheongnyang Mountain). In the Korean language’s alphabet called “Hangul”, Heungryunsa is spelled 흥륜사. I discovered that sometimes (though seemingly not as often) it’s romanized as Heungnyunsa.
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How to Get to Heungryunsa
From Inha University Station (which is on the Suin Bundang Subway Line), there are a number of local buses that can take you southbound to the stop closest to the temple. I opted for the “8” bus to the stop marked “Songdo Park Xi Apt” (I find it fascinating how many Korean bus stations are named by rather specific businesses or residences). I had the address for Heungryunsa for my reference: 40-18 Cheongnyang-ro 70 beon-gil, Yeonsu-gu, Incheon. As the bus rounded the corner amidst Incheon’s plethora of towering high-rise apartments, I saw clearly a Buddha statue on the lush green mountainside in the distance. Once off the bus, the only thing to do was head up the increasingly steep terrain towards the top of Cheongnyang mountain. It’s only about a 15 minute walk dotted with many restaurants and progressively lovely views over the city.
A Gold Touched Temple
As I climbed higher and higher up the mountain, the large temple hall is one of the first sights of the full complex (Korean Buddhist temples typically consist of multiple buildings). This being my second long(ish)-term trip to Korea, I had seen a fair number of their traditional temples. Undoubtedly many share similar characteristics but I can usually count on the dominant colors being the dark green of the curved roofs or the brown wooden walls. Heungryunsa is maybe the first (that I’d seen thus far; I have no doubt I have not seen all of Korea’s temple traits and colors) with so many golden hues throughout. The gold and white roof with the bright gold Buddha statues on top was striking. I was about to see many more golden spectacles.
At the top of a large white staircase, you are greeted by the rest of the temple complex. By this point, you are nestled in the gorgeous deep green pines of Mount Cheongnyang. Just a 15 minute walk from the bustling streets and modern high rise apartments, you are amidst the beautiful melodies of Buddhist chants and the fragrant wafts of ceremonial incense; One of my favorite aspects of South Korea is the juxtaposition of the old and the new.
There were so many beautiful details and figures to take in, from the rushing fountain, to the bright laughing Buddha statue to the large gold bell. All contrasting with the dark evergreen trees; it was a vivid, colorful sight.
History of Heungryunsa
Heungryunsa’s origins stretch way back to the 1300’s when the original temple at this site was named Cheongnyangsa (sharing the name of the mountain on which it sits). Sadly, as with many historic Korean sites, it was destroyed by a Japanese invasion during the late 1500’s. It wasn’t until the 1920’s (as stated by the temple’s information though other sources say the 1930’s) that the temple was rebuilt. It was then, not until the 1960’s that it attained its present day name.
For those wanting an immersive, educational experience of what life as a Buddhist monk is like, Heungryunsa offers a “Temple Stay”: a brief insight into the daily life at a Buddhist Temple including meditation and tending to the temple grounds.
The View Over Incheon
The very mountainous terrain of Korea has no shortage of amazing views. A view combined with the serene atmosphere of this beautiful temple is an extra special treat. Though I cannot say from first hand experience (as I visited in the afternoon on a cloudy day), my sense of direction tells me that, as Heungryunsa faces south, it would be a great vantage point to view a beautiful sunset to your right-hand side and a beautiful sunrise to your left-hand side.
Even without much of the sun’s rays, the view was pretty fantastic, especially from my favorite spot on the temple’s complex: the grand golden pagoda. A visit to Heungryunsa is a truly calming, beautiful experience in Incheon. For me, the diverse traditional temples that can be found throughout South Korea are such a great go-to for an enriching yet free experience. Even if you only have a long layover in Incheon’s famous airport, maybe you can make a little time to swing by this majestic golden strewn temple.
Thank you so much for reading and viewing! If you are inspired to travel to this beautiful country, I hope you’ll check out my packing list for South Korea for some great travel essentials.