Seoul, South Korea is such a vibrant, exciting city. You can find so much sleek, modern architecture and innovation in South Korea’s capital. Yet it has enclaves of tranquility and traditional Korean culture that give this wonderful place a unique character. As a person often traveling on a tight budget, I quickly discovered that one of the simplest, enriching and free experiences to be had in South Korea is exploring one of it’s many Buddhist temples.
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Getting to Jogyesa
Jogyesa Temple (조계사) is located right in downtown Seoul. It is easily accessible by subway and is close to both Jonggak station on the Number 1 Subway Line and Anguk station on the Number 3 Line. As you make your way through the bustling streets of this area, called Jongno-gu, the temple’s entrance appears rather inconspicuously amongst all the modern offices and businesses. But step through the gates and you will be greeted by a gorgeous space with the ornate curved roofs so characteristic of Korean temples. Along with the large golden Buddha statues in the prayer hall, there are multiple other Buddhas dotting the grounds outside.
It’s typical of Korean Buddhist temples to have multiple buildings as part of a complex including a large courtyard. It makes it an inviting, open atmosphere to explore and learn about its history. I remember entering the large prayer hall where you must take off your shoes before going inside. (I was a bit nervous to leave my shoes amongst dozens of others!) Then I felt warmly welcomed inside the large hall where soft cushions cover the floor as I knelt down and joined dozens of other attendees in prayer. It is important to be respectful inside the prayer room: absolutely NO photos or talking. The ceremonial hymns and chanting are such a soothing beautiful sound I still closely associate with the whole of Korea.
Jogyesa is home to two ancient trees. There is a large Chinese Scholar Tree in front of the main hall that is over 400 years old and a white pine that is over 500 years old. I am always quite fascinated by ancient trees. They are like beautiful natural relics baring witness to a place’s history even if the bricks and beams have been replaced over time.
A Little History
The original temple, then called Gakhawangsa, was founded in the late 14th century. It did not attain its present day name until 1954, signifying it being the head of the “Jogye Order” of Korean Buddhism. Jogyesa’s position as the head temple of the Jogye order makes it one of the most significant temples in South Korea.
Jogyesa in Spring
My first unforgettable visit to Jogyesa was in April during cherry blossom season. I was greeted by a canopy of hundreds of brightly colored lanterns. This breathtaking sight is one of my favorite memories of traveling in South Korea. I learned that this striking display is to celebrate Buddha’s birthday. Other temples such as Bongeunsa (also in Seoul in the Gangnam district) have similar lantern displays.
Jogyesa in Fall
During a visit to Seoul in Fall, I had the fortune of seeing Jogyesa during the Chrysanthemum Festival. This beautiful festival is typically held from mid October until mid November. One can enjoy the grounds of the temple splendidly covered in bright flowers. I especially found the Buddha statues dressed in the bright yellow flowers to be quite striking.
Jogyesa’s Temple Stay
Many Korean Temples offer what is called a “Temple Stay”. These immersive programs allow you to follow the monks in their daily activities. It is a really unique experience to learn about Korean Buddhism and also about meditation and mindfulness in general. I get the sense that these types of experiences are gaining popularity over the years. There is a natural hunger in today’s tense and over stimulated world for simplicity and peace.
The Area around Jogyesa
Jogyesa’s location couldn’t be more convenient for a first time visitor of Seoul. The Temple is centrally located and within walking distance of many of Seoul’s top attractions. One of the most popular tourist spots in Jogyesa’s neighborhood is Insadong. Full of restaurants, shops, and art galleries; it’s the perfect place to grab souvenirs for your trip. Just a couple blocks up and to the west is Gyeongbokgung, the largest of Seoul’s historic royal palaces. This iconic palace is full of history and so fun to explore.
Adjacent to the palace is Buckchon Hanok Village. This neighborhood is full of beautiful traditional Korean homes (hanoks) dating back hundreds of years. There are also many cafes and galleries to peruse here as well as amazing views over the city. Just a couple of blocks south of Jogyesa is Cheonggyecheon: a long peaceful stream which runs through the city. This stream used to be a sewer but was revitalized into a beautiful, clean body of water with many waterfalls and bridges. I always enjoy it at sunset when the decorative lights around the stream start to flicker on.
A Peaceful Spot in Seoul
Jogyesa Temple is simply a magical experience in Seoul, South Korea. It is warm and inviting, has a wonderful history to explore, and hosts some gorgeous events throughout the year. It’s also so conveniently located to incorporate into a long day of exploring Seoul’s most popular sights. I hope visitors to South Korea may be inspired to see some of the other numerous temples outside of Seoul. South Korea really is full of fascinating history and traditional culture. In a place with such a fun juxtaposition of the old and the new, be sure to get a taste of both! You can check out my South Korea packing list for a list of travel essentials to enjoy this beautiful country.
