I am a lover of slow travel and generally taking my time to immerse myself in the daily life of a place. One of my favorite countries to explore is South Korea, and its tourist epicenter, Seoul, is one of my favorite cities in the world. However, during my second trip to Korea, as I was on a very tight budget and sought slightly cheaper accommodation than the exciting capital offers. I was drawn to the more affordable housing of one of Seoul’s neighboring cities: Incheon. I found myself residing, specifically, in charming Michuhol-gu (미추홀구) or Michuhol District: the heart of old Incheon. I found this seldom mentioned area of Korea to have such a special character and feel. So, for those interested in non touristy places in Korea, here are some of my favorite photos of this neighborhood.

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Michuhol-gu is well connected to downtown Seoul by a few major subway stations such as Juan station. I could easily take the blue “1 line” to Seoul Station in less than an hour. I certainly thought I’d mostly be commuting into the capital during my stay but I’m glad I also took time to explore the delightfully funky neighborhood right outside my doorstep.

I could get lost for hours just exploring the small streets and alleys. I delighted in studying the quirky faded signs of the old shop fronts, the colorful curved edged roofs, and ornate details on small homes.

The traditional markets or “Shijangs” are plentiful in Michuhol-gu. These quasi enclosed spaces with arcade like corridors are lined with vendors selling not just your standard groceries but some amazing street food.

Day or night, I’d pass by the sizzling sounds and delicious aromas of steamed and fried snacks such as Mandu (dumplings) and Hotteok (stuffed pancakes).

A central point of Michuhol-gu is Inha University ( 인하대학교 ) : a quite prestigious school renowned throughout the country. The campus is so green and inviting. I often sat by the beautiful pond to write in my journal and people watch.

Adjacent to Inha University: Inha Culture Street is a fantastically colorful and bustling area with many restaurants, cafes and “Norebangs”: Korea’s version of Karaoke (Norebang literally translates to “Song Room”). Even this non touristy place in Korea gets lively at night with the bright lights and music playing from the shops.

There is no shortage of amazing food in South Korea but University neighborhoods have the bonus of such great cheap options to choose from. I could get easily find a big meal for less than $10.

My favorite spots to eat were always the simple restaurants serving a variety of traditional Korean fare with classic dishes like Kimchi Stew. The atmosphere of these restaurants is so cozy and relaxed: there is no tipping in Korea and no unnecessary doting by the servers. Water and tea are self-served and sometimes there’s a TV to catch some news, sports or even Korean Dramas.

As the university attracts a number of international students, I observed a moderately diverse crowd at least relative to such a racially homogeneous country.

South Korea has a pretty large Christian population with almost 30% of the country being Catholic or Protestant. As Buddhism still holds a strong presence in the country as well, the contrasting houses of worship can create quite an intriguing cityscape.

I am always particularly entranced by the traditional Buddhist temples. Though Korea’s grander temples naturally attract the most tourists, it’s quite magical getting lost in the quiet neighborhoods and finding the smaller shrines dotted amongst mountains, parks and alleys. I never tire of the decorative details and bold colors.

While wandering around the small mountain, Seunghaksan, south of Inha University, I stumbled upon Sumijoeongsa Temple in the forest. There I was greeted by a fascinating display of hundreds of small stone Buddhas.

Another small mountain, Subongsan, can be found on the northern side of the University. Korean terrain being so hilly (the country is at least 70% mountainous) provides for endless scenic walks with gorgeous views.

The road up to Subongsan twists and turns through beautiful old homes with colorful tiled roofs, laundry swaying in the breeze, and the occasional small front yard with persimmon trees.

From the mountains, one can take in the expansive view of the area and appreciate the wonderful contrasts of Korea: A densely populated country yet strewn with so many places of natural beauty and tranquility. A modern urban sprawl from a distance that holds endless nooks and crannies of quaint charm when explored up close.

I’ll always fondly remember my little home of Michuhol-gu and the rest of Incheon had plenty more to explore from Wolmi Island to Heungryunsa Temple. Korea holds so many unexpected adventures big and small (and so much of it for free). Some of my favorite travel memories are not in big grand attractions but in the small details; the unique tastes and sounds of daily life within a new land.